Five minutes after I finished last night's entry, a Korean gentleman from the neighbourong site came over and struck up a conversation. We talked until he noticed me yawning, then we both headed to bed. đ
Up at five, half an hour to toilet (per usual), then Kathy's leftover stirfry, Bruce's peas, and my half lemon and pasta. Off by 7:25, 25 minutes later than advised. Still made it to the top before the bike ban came back into effect at 11. The road was not bad, but the drivers were crazy. Most of them went clear to the other side of the road, which really was not safe to do. It's not like I was the only cyclist, either, though I was the only one carrying weight. Everyone else were day riders.
Lovely ride up then the summit was sheer chaos. I'm not sure where I've seen so many people. I stayed long enough to buy a cookie and a park patch, and refill my water bottles.
The ride down was crazy fast as usual but surprisingly short. Ate lunch -- a black bean burger and a stout -- at Rising Sun, shortly before the park gate. Stopped for a drink at St. Mary's, then found myself walking part of the way up the quite steep incline to Hudson Bay Divide. After that it was rolling terrain to Browning (where Bruce advised not to stay) then flat flat flat till I plunged downhill into Cut Bank. I was tired and it was late, and Google didn't help with any campgrounds, so I splurged on a motel room. The offer of a free breakfast didn't hurt. đ
Tuesday, July 31, 2018
Monday, July 30, 2018
day thirteenish: talon trail (columbia falls) to sprague creek campground (47km)
No mobile signal this evening so writing this out by hand for later. Caught the shuttle bus from the visitor's center here so I could reserve a site, then cycled back and here againonce it was past four o'clock and the cycle ban lifted. Really needn't have worried; the other cyclidt/hiker site is still unclaimed. I'm pretty sure I could even have gone on to Avalanche Campground, even though it was officially full. My impression is that msny of the rangers don't know about these sites.
No oats for dinner tonight. I forgot to buy more in Whitefish. So I had the leftover pancakes Kathy made me instead. Must remember oatmeal tomorrow.
Feels seriously wrird to stop so early, but I figured the time to do Logan Pass is in the motning. Funny: tomorrow will be my last serious climb, my last real mountain -- although Bruce tells me the rest of Montana isn't as flat as I'm remembering it.
Couple of interesting conversations today. An attractive young man was oohing and ahing over my bike ("is that a custom-built bike?") when I stopped for lunch outside the park at the Wandering Gringo Cafe. And the woman behind the counter at the restaurant/gift shop/convenience store just outside the park entrance persuaded me to do the Going to the Sun Road after all ("you haven't been here before? oh, then you have to!"). Still, feeling lonely this evening after the wonderful conversations of thr ladt teo nights. Finding it hard to strike up a conversation here at the campground.
No oats for dinner tonight. I forgot to buy more in Whitefish. So I had the leftover pancakes Kathy made me instead. Must remember oatmeal tomorrow.
Feels seriously wrird to stop so early, but I figured the time to do Logan Pass is in the motning. Funny: tomorrow will be my last serious climb, my last real mountain -- although Bruce tells me the rest of Montana isn't as flat as I'm remembering it.
Couple of interesting conversations today. An attractive young man was oohing and ahing over my bike ("is that a custom-built bike?") when I stopped for lunch outside the park at the Wandering Gringo Cafe. And the woman behind the counter at the restaurant/gift shop/convenience store just outside the park entrance persuaded me to do the Going to the Sun Road after all ("you haven't been here before? oh, then you have to!"). Still, feeling lonely this evening after the wonderful conversations of thr ladt teo nights. Finding it hard to strike up a conversation here at the campground.
day twelve: eureka to 618 talon trail, columbia falls (126km)
Slow getting started as the sprinklers came on in waves, and I was having to shift my gear around to try to avoid it getting wet. Was nice though being able to grab a breakfast coffee from the (24-hour) gas dtation across the highway. The UK guy who's been cycling around the world for 14 months bought me a second coffee. He was interested in riding together for a while, but I find it's really hard to match pace, so I politely declined. Thought I'd see him later in the day as he was only going to Whitefish, but I never did.
First maybe 15km I followed the old highway then back out on the main road with occasionally very narrow shoulders. Stopped for lunch break at Dog Creek; started with a smoothie then ordered a pizza. Manager gave me a couple protein bars to take with me.
Called cousin Bruce from Whitefish. He drove down to Columbia Falls to meet me and offered to take me and the bike back to his and Kathy's place, but I was in the mood for writing and it was, in fact, a lovely quiet ride 18km, most of it along a highway to a border crossing that's now permanently closed. Bruce built the house himself, and it has all the fun eccentricities of such places -- makes me think of the house my Grandpa Rayle built. It's wonderfully secluded in the trees. I tented in the yard and listened to the trains go by along the river through the night.
First maybe 15km I followed the old highway then back out on the main road with occasionally very narrow shoulders. Stopped for lunch break at Dog Creek; started with a smoothie then ordered a pizza. Manager gave me a couple protein bars to take with me.
Called cousin Bruce from Whitefish. He drove down to Columbia Falls to meet me and offered to take me and the bike back to his and Kathy's place, but I was in the mood for writing and it was, in fact, a lovely quiet ride 18km, most of it along a highway to a border crossing that's now permanently closed. Bruce built the house himself, and it has all the fun eccentricities of such places -- makes me think of the house my Grandpa Rayle built. It's wonderfully secluded in the trees. I tented in the yard and listened to the trains go by along the river through the night.
Saturday, July 28, 2018
day eleven: cranbrook to eureka (118km)
On the road again! Left Cranbrook 11am after second breakfast. Wheel rode well. Yet another day of essentially flat; could have gone further except for the hour I spent at the border. Typical. Cyclists get "special" treatment. Didn't maybe help that I had a lemon with me, though I declared it. Lemons are, I was told -- I kid you not -- an "invasive species". In any case, no citrus are allowed in. In the end I was told "welcome back".
Stopped just to get a drink at the petrol station in Jaffrey before turning south on a backroad to escape the traffic and shave off 5km. Back on the highway 24,km later, topped again, just for drinks and to spend down my Canadian money, at the "general store and Rliquor store" in unincorporated Grasmere: a V8, a Starbucks Frappuino, and -- quite by accident -- I. meant to get another V8 -- a Pepsi. (I don't really do soda.)
So strange crossing into the US. Suddenly everything is one extended business strip, most of the way from the border. Really wrird stuff to: golf courses, fancy pubs, RV resorts, a pizza place. This was long before I got to town. Passed the one campground north of town that showed on Google Maps but was not inpired; it was basically a glorified RV park and not such a nice one. Thankfully saw this municipal campground only because of all the tents already set up. Everyone staying here tonight is a cycle tourist. Sat and talked and shared wine with them for far too long.
Stopped just to get a drink at the petrol station in Jaffrey before turning south on a backroad to escape the traffic and shave off 5km. Back on the highway 24,km later, topped again, just for drinks and to spend down my Canadian money, at the "general store and Rliquor store" in unincorporated Grasmere: a V8, a Starbucks Frappuino, and -- quite by accident -- I. meant to get another V8 -- a Pepsi. (I don't really do soda.)
So strange crossing into the US. Suddenly everything is one extended business strip, most of the way from the border. Really wrird stuff to: golf courses, fancy pubs, RV resorts, a pizza place. This was long before I got to town. Passed the one campground north of town that showed on Google Maps but was not inpired; it was basically a glorified RV park and not such a nice one. Thankfully saw this municipal campground only because of all the tents already set up. Everyone staying here tonight is a cycle tourist. Sat and talked and shared wine with them for far too long.
Friday, July 27, 2018
day tenish: cranbrook to lumberton and back (29km)
Went to collect my cycle wheel this morning at 11 only to find that Elijah, the mechanic, had completely failed to get the freewheel off. His recommendation was to ride on and trust the other 35 spokes to hold. I was skeptical but seemed to have few options. I did a test ride back to Lumberton, sans bags, which went fine until I went to turn around to head back. Playing with the gears, which were behaving oddly (the wheel had slightly changed shape), I attempted to select the lowest gear in back, only to have the chain go into the spokes.
Returning to town, I checked in again at the campground where I'd left my panniers and returned to the bike shop to see if they couldn't build me a new wheel. Elijah didn't like that idea, so he had a go again at removing my freewheel -- and this time it worked! ...Sufficiently. (He couldn't remove the core unit, but he was able to take off the sprockets, which is what matters in terms of changing spokes.) He proceeded to replace all the spokes I'd mangled with the chain plus the one that started this whole mess, but then it was past six (closing time) and he ran out of time. So he promised it for 9:30 tomorrow, yay!
Returning to town, I checked in again at the campground where I'd left my panniers and returned to the bike shop to see if they couldn't build me a new wheel. Elijah didn't like that idea, so he had a go again at removing my freewheel -- and this time it worked! ...Sufficiently. (He couldn't remove the core unit, but he was able to take off the sprockets, which is what matters in terms of changing spokes.) He proceeded to replace all the spokes I'd mangled with the chain plus the one that started this whole mess, but then it was past six (closing time) and he ran out of time. So he promised it for 9:30 tomorrow, yay!
Thursday, July 26, 2018
day nine: creston to lumberton (97km)
Big thing is I lost a spoke. Not surprised after that 30km downhill over temporary road surface. Happened along North Moyie Lake. Walked to the nearest campground, which looked lovely but was closed. The provincial park campground was full. Couldn't get a proper data signal to look for more options. Asked a woman walking her dog at a provate RV resort what she knew. She tried to be helpful and got her whole family involved but, in the end, her suggestion was to bang on the "shop" doors and ask if I could camp despite the camping prohibition. I couldn't get to the shop past a locked gate though and didn't think I was too comfortable with the idea anyway.
Walked till midnight, when I was blinded by the lights of the lumbermill in Lumberton. Saw some folks out partying on their patio and stopped toask them for their advice. Ended up sleeping in the one person's backyard (amidst the dog poo!) and getting a ride to town this morning with another. Jesse is a welder at one of the local mines on a four-day on, four-day off schedule.
Still debating whether to cycle back to Lumberton and do that stretch. Part of me is still very much a white blazer, not a yellow blazer. đ
Walked till midnight, when I was blinded by the lights of the lumbermill in Lumberton. Saw some folks out partying on their patio and stopped toask them for their advice. Ended up sleeping in the one person's backyard (amidst the dog poo!) and getting a ride to town this morning with another. Jesse is a welder at one of the local mines on a four-day on, four-day off schedule.
Still debating whether to cycle back to Lumberton and do that stretch. Part of me is still very much a white blazer, not a yellow blazer. đ
Wednesday, July 25, 2018
day eight: Salmo to Creston (84km)
Up and over the big one: Kootenay Pass, nearly 1800m, the highest point till I come to Glacier. Had been warned that the mountain was dry but, in fact, there were plenty of small streams cascading down the sheer rock faces where the road blasted through. I was plenty hot but not thirsty.
The ride down (over 30km!) was spoiled by the temporary road surface: they'd stripped off the top layer of asphalt preparatory to resealing. (Supposedly the work is to be finished by Summer 2018. I don't think they'll make it.) The sign at the summit said the roadwork extended from the pass to Summit Stream. I thought, Summit Stream will be near the summit, right? Turned out to be the stream I followed the whole way down and finally crossed at the bottom -- when I could not have been more grateful to have proper road surface again!
I was amazed to cross a wide, swampy area followed by huge, flat fields -- the first farming I'd come upon on this trip -- with the next line of mountains looming in the background. I was welcomed to town by a large Ramada Inn followed by a standard business strip, with the Pair A Dice RV Park and Campground nestled in among. Very grateful for the free (not coin-operated) showers.
The shorts problem seems not to have been a rodent after all. It's something the leather is doing to itself. Hoping to find a new pair in town, otherwise must wait till Cranbrook. Too bad the new pair won't be natural chamois.
The ride down (over 30km!) was spoiled by the temporary road surface: they'd stripped off the top layer of asphalt preparatory to resealing. (Supposedly the work is to be finished by Summer 2018. I don't think they'll make it.) The sign at the summit said the roadwork extended from the pass to Summit Stream. I thought, Summit Stream will be near the summit, right? Turned out to be the stream I followed the whole way down and finally crossed at the bottom -- when I could not have been more grateful to have proper road surface again!
I was amazed to cross a wide, swampy area followed by huge, flat fields -- the first farming I'd come upon on this trip -- with the next line of mountains looming in the background. I was welcomed to town by a large Ramada Inn followed by a standard business strip, with the Pair A Dice RV Park and Campground nestled in among. Very grateful for the free (not coin-operated) showers.
The shorts problem seems not to have been a rodent after all. It's something the leather is doing to itself. Hoping to find a new pair in town, otherwise must wait till Cranbrook. Too bad the new pair won't be natural chamois.
Tuesday, July 24, 2018
day seven: mud lake to salmo (94km)
The wife came early -- said she wanted to give me a chance to climb Paulson Pass before the heat of the day. I was on the road just after 8:30. Psychologically hard to start the day on a steep incline!
The descent into Castlegar was (mostly) gradual, as promised. Stopped for second breakfast and to charge my phone / update this blog at the first coffee shop I came to, right off the exit ramp into town. Rode into town to meet Doug from Warmshowers, who would have hosted me the night before if I'd been a bit faster up the pass. He loaded me up with Gatorade then pointed me across the street to a Greek restaurant for lunch. The Greek restaurant was closed, so I went to the German restaurant next door. The owner had an accent that sounded oddly familiar: almost Russian but not. She's from Moldova, married to a German.
I feel like the routine every day now is to climb at least one pass. Leaving town (around three) I ascended 800+ meters to Bombi Pass, walking much of the way as it was steep and the sun blazingly hot. The descent was, per usual, death defyingly fast. I was worried about getting cold because the temperatures were notably cooling but instead it was just pleasant feeling the sweat blasted away. I think the cyclists are foolish to avoid this route; the scenery is amazing and, when the climbing gets too hot or hard, there's always walking.
The last 11km to Salmo were along a narrow valley. Stayed in the municipal "overnight rest area". When I took off my cycling shorts, I saw what I hadn't in the morning when I put them on: something had chewed a nice round, fairly large hole in the chamois lining! Thankfully the underlying fabric is undisturbed, but I will need a new pair of cycle shorts from the next cycle shop I pass. Must have happened when I was staying at Mud Lake (I slept in the cabin, which I discovered afterwards I wasn't meant to do), but I had the shorts right beside me and never noticed a thing!
The descent into Castlegar was (mostly) gradual, as promised. Stopped for second breakfast and to charge my phone / update this blog at the first coffee shop I came to, right off the exit ramp into town. Rode into town to meet Doug from Warmshowers, who would have hosted me the night before if I'd been a bit faster up the pass. He loaded me up with Gatorade then pointed me across the street to a Greek restaurant for lunch. The Greek restaurant was closed, so I went to the German restaurant next door. The owner had an accent that sounded oddly familiar: almost Russian but not. She's from Moldova, married to a German.
I feel like the routine every day now is to climb at least one pass. Leaving town (around three) I ascended 800+ meters to Bombi Pass, walking much of the way as it was steep and the sun blazingly hot. The descent was, per usual, death defyingly fast. I was worried about getting cold because the temperatures were notably cooling but instead it was just pleasant feeling the sweat blasted away. I think the cyclists are foolish to avoid this route; the scenery is amazing and, when the climbing gets too hot or hard, there's always walking.
The last 11km to Salmo were along a narrow valley. Stayed in the municipal "overnight rest area". When I took off my cycling shorts, I saw what I hadn't in the morning when I put them on: something had chewed a nice round, fairly large hole in the chamois lining! Thankfully the underlying fabric is undisturbed, but I will need a new pair of cycle shorts from the next cycle shop I pass. Must have happened when I was staying at Mud Lake (I slept in the cabin, which I discovered afterwards I wasn't meant to do), but I had the shorts right beside me and never noticed a thing!
Monday, July 23, 2018
day six: boundary creek to mud lake (103km)
Stopped and grocery shopped in Grand Forks, the largest place I've seen since Greater Vancouver. Blinked and missed Christina Lake (the town) so before tackling the mountain I followed the signs downhill to the Marina Patio Burger Bar to refill on water. Ended up paying $4,50 for 1,5 liters, yikes.
Glad I did the climb in the evening but boy it was slow. Got caught by oncoming darkness shortly before the summit. Tried following directions to get to the rail trail and camp, but after 20 minutes I hadn't reached the trail and the side road was going exactly back the way I came... Obviously the former highway.
The shoulder back on the highway was wide and the night air cool so I put on my Sam Browne belt and continued my climb on foot. A couple stopped and convinced me to let them take me over the summit to a campsite at Mud Lake. The next morning (so, this morning) on her way to work, the wife stopped back and gave me a lift back to where they'd picked me up, with a refill on my water.
Glad I did the climb in the evening but boy it was slow. Got caught by oncoming darkness shortly before the summit. Tried following directions to get to the rail trail and camp, but after 20 minutes I hadn't reached the trail and the side road was going exactly back the way I came... Obviously the former highway.
The shoulder back on the highway was wide and the night air cool so I put on my Sam Browne belt and continued my climb on foot. A couple stopped and convinced me to let them take me over the summit to a campsite at Mud Lake. The next morning (so, this morning) on her way to work, the wife stopped back and gave me a lift back to where they'd picked me up, with a refill on my water.
Sunday, July 22, 2018
day five: osoyoos to boundary creek provincial park (85km)
Long climb up from Osoyoos to the summit of Anarchist Mountain, though the gradient really was not bad. Disappointed at the elevation on the summit, which was only a bit over 1200m. Had to Yogi for water at a rest stop, because I was already out. Went to a B&B for more water, though that was a mistake. The people (Swiss Germans who spoke limited English) were friendly enough, but the gravel road was a pain on the ride down and impossible -- as it turned out -- to cycle up. Indeed, I struggled to walk it. Oh, and it was over 1km long.
Just down the road I came to -- of all things -- a Mexican restaurant, in the middle of otherwise nowhere. The owner was married to a woman from Mexico City. She did the cooking, he waited tables and baked cinnamon buns. I had the enchiladas, then was persuaded to have hibiscus iced tea and a cinnamon bun.
The summit was another 5km then a wild ride downhill and over a bridge across a scarily deep canyon -- then a brief climb and, as the restaurant owner had warned me -- I plummeted again till I got to Rock Creek.
Didn't make it quite as far as the intended Greenwood, both because I found the provincial park inviting and because I was clearly running some fever. The bee sting area continues to hurt and is somewhat swollen, but there's no indication of infection.
Just down the road I came to -- of all things -- a Mexican restaurant, in the middle of otherwise nowhere. The owner was married to a woman from Mexico City. She did the cooking, he waited tables and baked cinnamon buns. I had the enchiladas, then was persuaded to have hibiscus iced tea and a cinnamon bun.
The summit was another 5km then a wild ride downhill and over a bridge across a scarily deep canyon -- then a brief climb and, as the restaurant owner had warned me -- I plummeted again till I got to Rock Creek.
Didn't make it quite as far as the intended Greenwood, both because I found the provincial park inviting and because I was clearly running some fever. The bee sting area continues to hurt and is somewhat swollen, but there's no indication of infection.
Saturday, July 21, 2018
day four: hedley to osoyoos (91km)
Another slow slow day for a number of factors. I sat at least two hours in a cafe in Hedley waiting for my phone to charge. Made good progress down the valley till I stopped three times for late lunch :-) then the terrain got rollercoaster rolling. That really slowed me down. The actual mountain wasn't too bad in comparison, but starting up it I suddenly lost bowel control and just had time to reach the bushes. The fresh cherries I ate for first lunch went more or less straight through undigested. No idea if it was something I ate or a failure to wash my hands properly at some point or clean my pot properly or what.
Coming down off the mountain, a bee and I collided at high speed. It got caught hanging on to me with its stinger in my arm, which hurt like hell. Still hurts a bit this morning. Felt in no state to ride on from Osoyoos up the next big mountain, so I went looking for the nearest campground. Didn't see the provincial patk on my map so ended up taking the last spot at Cabana Beach commercial campground. For what I paid I almost could have gotten a motel room on the other, unfashionable side of the river. Attendant Bernard very friendly, very chatty though; rnded up hanging out talking to him at the camp store till it closed.
Coming down off the mountain, a bee and I collided at high speed. It got caught hanging on to me with its stinger in my arm, which hurt like hell. Still hurts a bit this morning. Felt in no state to ride on from Osoyoos up the next big mountain, so I went looking for the nearest campground. Didn't see the provincial patk on my map so ended up taking the last spot at Cabana Beach commercial campground. For what I paid I almost could have gotten a motel room on the other, unfashionable side of the river. Attendant Bernard very friendly, very chatty though; rnded up hanging out talking to him at the camp store till it closed.
Friday, July 20, 2018
day three: crabbie creek to hedley (110 km)
Again no mobile signal last night, even though I was in a campground outside town. The people who let me share their site (the campground was full) claimed they could get a signal if they stood just right but I had no luck.
Stopped for second breakfast at the park lodge; felt decadent, but the food was good, if simple, and I was able to charge my phone and make a blog entry. I bought samosas for lunch but no groceriesvfrom the store, which really was targeting the casual camping crowd. Chatted with the guy at the next table, who asked the eternal questions: where are you riding from/to.
The rest of the day I mostly followed the river, except for one stretch where it cut through a narrow canyon. There I climbed Sunday Mountain -- slightly lower than the previous day's pass. Past the summit the terrain was suddenly much drier -- a phenomenon I had studied back in high school but never had personal experience of.
Stopped for rewatering and groceries in Princeton. The young man at the grocery store asked me what I had on the bottom of my shoes and stared in amazement. "I've never seen that before!" Small town BC.
I almost stopped at the Provincial Parks campground that wasn't on my map, but the price was high, and I wasn't quite ready to stop. Got to the target campground and rode around the loop looking for a spot. There were lots of suitable flat spots, but I had the feeling I was meant to stay at a designated site. Riding around a second time I ran into loose gravel and went down. Guy came over to see if I was all right -- really, only my dignity was injured -- said the campground was indeed full but he and his wife had plenty of space. So that's what I did. I was short on water, and no water pipe -- never mind showers! --in the campground, so they loaded me up on bottled water.
Stopped for second breakfast at the park lodge; felt decadent, but the food was good, if simple, and I was able to charge my phone and make a blog entry. I bought samosas for lunch but no groceriesvfrom the store, which really was targeting the casual camping crowd. Chatted with the guy at the next table, who asked the eternal questions: where are you riding from/to.
The rest of the day I mostly followed the river, except for one stretch where it cut through a narrow canyon. There I climbed Sunday Mountain -- slightly lower than the previous day's pass. Past the summit the terrain was suddenly much drier -- a phenomenon I had studied back in high school but never had personal experience of.
Stopped for rewatering and groceries in Princeton. The young man at the grocery store asked me what I had on the bottom of my shoes and stared in amazement. "I've never seen that before!" Small town BC.
I almost stopped at the Provincial Parks campground that wasn't on my map, but the price was high, and I wasn't quite ready to stop. Got to the target campground and rode around the loop looking for a spot. There were lots of suitable flat spots, but I had the feeling I was meant to stay at a designated site. Riding around a second time I ran into loose gravel and went down. Guy came over to see if I was all right -- really, only my dignity was injured -- said the campground was indeed full but he and his wife had plenty of space. So that's what I did. I was short on water, and no water pipe -- never mind showers! --in the campground, so they loaded me up on bottled water.
Thursday, July 19, 2018
day two: hope to crabbie creek (67km)
Have to check the name of the campsite I stayed at last night when I have a better Internet connection. (Still, no knocking free wifi!) No mobile signal most of the day yesterday and none at the campsite, so no way to do a blog entry. Generally poor progress, but I was pretty upset over my latest difficulties pursuing further education (or, really, retraining), plus I wasn't feeling so great after all the sun I took Tuesday, plus I was heading into the mountains -- so, major climbing. As the day wore on, I got off and walked a lot. Missed the campsite first time I passed, and the second, before I finally worked out where it had to be. It was not well marked. Worried how to hang my food; ended up putting it in the outhouse, which was rodent (and bear) proof. Woke early to the sound of trucks testing their brakes before the long uphill I had just recently climbed.
It was insanely windy when I woke in Hope -- to the extent that even walking was uncomfortable. Loudly cursed the world when my tent started to blow away. Even when I caught up to it it took all my effort to hold on. A woman saw (or likelier heard) my difficulties and came over to assist. I got the campground attendant to open the laundry room so I'd have somewhere to roll the tent up. In general everything took several times longer to do than normal, with the wind. Thankfully it was dying down till I got on my way, around noon.
Water was a real problem. Not only was it again difficult to drink it fast enough, but streams were few and far between, much of the day, and often down an impossible slope. Thankfully found water not long before the final ascent to the pass, but I still had just one liter till I got to the campsite and, despite the name, no creek in sight. My pasta this morning was... rather chewier than I like it. :-)
It was insanely windy when I woke in Hope -- to the extent that even walking was uncomfortable. Loudly cursed the world when my tent started to blow away. Even when I caught up to it it took all my effort to hold on. A woman saw (or likelier heard) my difficulties and came over to assist. I got the campground attendant to open the laundry room so I'd have somewhere to roll the tent up. In general everything took several times longer to do than normal, with the wind. Thankfully it was dying down till I got on my way, around noon.
Water was a real problem. Not only was it again difficult to drink it fast enough, but streams were few and far between, much of the day, and often down an impossible slope. Thankfully found water not long before the final ascent to the pass, but I still had just one liter till I got to the campsite and, despite the name, no creek in sight. My pasta this morning was... rather chewier than I like it. :-)
Tuesday, July 17, 2018
day one:new westminster to hope (144km)
Didn't make it to the campsite I'd booked for tonight at Silver Lake Provincial Park. I got caught by darkness and I was quite tired (and probably dehydrated; I could not drink enough today). Silver Lake would have been 12 more kilometers, much of it gravel, a fair bit of it uphill. Day wasn't helped by an accidental 8km detour. I must have just been following the flow of traffic and not realized I'd turned.
Feeling sad because my plans to study in the autumn appear to be ended. The university will accept the mark I got for a physics course I took this spring but the central admissions agency for Sweden will not. It serms comically ridiculous.
Feeling sad because my plans to study in the autumn appear to be ended. The university will accept the mark I got for a physics course I took this spring but the central admissions agency for Sweden will not. It serms comically ridiculous.
Monday, July 16, 2018
supplies day
- cycle computer to replace the one that fell off or got stolen at Wreak Beach
- stove fuel
- plastic spoon (actually spork)
- DEET (but only 30% 'cause this is Canada)
- socks to replace the extra pair I forgot to pack
- camp soap
- contact lens solution
Sunday, July 15, 2018
trial run
The hotel Alan got is in New Westminster, right along the river, so after I reassembled the bike at the hostel (following two breakfasts), I rode out to the end of the peninsula. I couldn't really access the beach right out at the point, so when I got to Wreak Beach I parked the bike, locked it, took the valuables, and headed down the many many many steps to the beach for a selfie with the surf in the background. I knew it was Wreak Beach when various nude joggers went by. (The last time I was on Wreak Beach was 1984, but it was a relatively cold day and the beach was empty.) Came back up to find my (cheap, old) cycle computer gone. Whether someone took it though or it just fell off somewhere (the retaining clip was broken, so the unit was quite loose) I do not know. I backtracked a ways in case it had fallen, but no luck.
From Wreak Beach, I followed the peninsula around to the river and then the river for the 25 or so kilometers to the hotel. Drank nearly two liters of water in route plus stopped for an iced tea (insweetened). On reaching New Westminster and just a couple kilometers from the hotel, I developed sudden severe bike problems: a weird looseness in the handlebars and a tendency for the brakes to seize up. Took me several tries to figure out the problem, but it seems to have all been caused by an obscure loose screw that just needed tightened.
From Wreak Beach, I followed the peninsula around to the river and then the river for the 25 or so kilometers to the hotel. Drank nearly two liters of water in route plus stopped for an iced tea (insweetened). On reaching New Westminster and just a couple kilometers from the hotel, I developed sudden severe bike problems: a weird looseness in the handlebars and a tendency for the brakes to seize up. Took me several tries to figure out the problem, but it seems to have all been caused by an obscure loose screw that just needed tightened.
Saturday, July 14, 2018
jericho beach
The immigration official looked unconvinced that I would reach Montana in six days. I said I should be doing 160km per day, so it does work out.... He also wanted details on exactly what sort of bike I had (the frame is a Surly Long Haul Trucker). But he let me through in the end.
I was skeptical of taking the bagged bike on the train and even less convinced that I'd get it on the subsequent bus, so I took a taxi to the hostel -- the first hostel I ever stayed in, back when I was doing my newspaper internship in Bellingham.
I'm too tired to assemble the bike tonight. That will wait for the morning.
I have been so severely depressed the last few months. I needed this trip so badly. My soul needed this trip so badly. So... first 25km is tomorrow, to meet up with Alan!
I was skeptical of taking the bagged bike on the train and even less convinced that I'd get it on the subsequent bus, so I took a taxi to the hostel -- the first hostel I ever stayed in, back when I was doing my newspaper internship in Bellingham.
I'm too tired to assemble the bike tonight. That will wait for the morning.
I have been so severely depressed the last few months. I needed this trip so badly. My soul needed this trip so badly. So... first 25km is tomorrow, to meet up with Alan!
Friday, July 13, 2018
göteborg (stigbergsliden)
Almost never got started today. Arrived at the station to learn that VÀsttrafik trains were not running at all today -- they're the only ones that take bikes -- plus the whole train system was in chaos due to a fire. For a while it looked like I was going nowhere. VÀsttrafik said that the first train I could take would leave at 7:30 tomorrow -- too late to catch my flight. Wrote to Daniela, who figured out I could take a bus to TrolhÀttan and a train from there, which worked: two hours on the bus, one hour waiting in the station, 45 minutes on the train. Arrived to the hostel about 7:15. One roommate, a woman from northern Italy.
Thursday, July 12, 2018
preparations redux
I changed my mind about the Thermarest and bought the compact one they had at the Nature Company. It's 4cm shorter than Alan's, folded, and -- hopefully, unlike Alan's -- it will self-inflate. Plus it's a sexy green.
I took off the pedals, seat post and handlebars, wrapped the frame in bubble wrap, and -- with Kevin's assistance (hej Kev!) -- got the bike into the bike bag. The old pedals stay behind; the new ones went in the small pocket of one of the panniers. The suitcase (with all the panniers and stuff to go on the bike) feels a bit worryingly heavy but, hopefully, not over 23kg. (I still have to pay for it, unfortunately.... €100 I think.) The heaviest item is the tent, which is a tad over 4kg, followed by the sleeping bag at maybe 2,5kg.
My neighbour Osama is going to water my house plants while I'm away. Kenneth (the landlord) will feed Shadow Lord (my cat). Kevin (hej Kev!) and Anders will water the office plants.
Hoping to get off relatively early tomorrow so I can look around the office for anything I've missed. Seems like I usually manage to forget something.
Wednesday, July 11, 2018
preparations
The new bike pedals arrived today. (My right pedal has felt a bit loose for years, as in the shoe doesn't clip in tightly, and the tension adjustment doesn't seem to help. Seemed like time to replace it.)
Realized a couple days ago that my RidgeRest was no way going to ride well on my rack. I'm going to borrow Alan's ThermaRest instead or, if it doesn't fit inside my bike bag, buy a new ThermaRest in Vancouver.
The first three nights out of Vancouver are fairly well mapped out. The plan is always to do detailed itineraries three days in advance. Hope to arrive at Caroline and Chris' place near the coast in Maryland shortly after the ides of August.
Realized a couple days ago that my RidgeRest was no way going to ride well on my rack. I'm going to borrow Alan's ThermaRest instead or, if it doesn't fit inside my bike bag, buy a new ThermaRest in Vancouver.
The first three nights out of Vancouver are fairly well mapped out. The plan is always to do detailed itineraries three days in advance. Hope to arrive at Caroline and Chris' place near the coast in Maryland shortly after the ides of August.
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