day fifty-three: middletown to lancaster (60km)

Went to Hardees to toilet and have first breakfast. Pastor Kim arrived and took me to the Brownstone Cafe for second breakfast, her treat. Put a new inner tube on the front tire, figuring I'll patch the old one later. Nothing dried out overnight but that's the humidity for you.

Rode back to the Middletown Home to visit Betty Burger and tell her what an important formative influence she'd been on me, and Mary Brandt who, despite being over 90, looks and acts younger than many or  most people in their 60s. Had lunch at Hardee's with Joel Medvidovich, an old childhood friend who lived just down Kelso Street from me, in Paxtang. He's running a billiards room and brewery in Harrisburg. He's very proud of his Russian imperial stout (my favorite kind).

Left town around three after picking up groceries at Giant's. Felt a whole mud of emotions, largely wistful. The old 230 Diner just outside town is all boarded up and half falling down. Long, drawn-out hill up from the Swatara Creek past the roller skating rink that still is, apparently, a roller skating rink; then a fairly level ride.

Stopped at the bike shop near the square in Elizabethtown to get new bike shorts. Cousin Carolyn saw from Facebook that I was in town and said to drop by, even though they were about to leave for Micaiah's wedding rehearsal; so I did, for five minutes or so. Last time I was by was 2009. Still remembered the house number.

Got a milkshake at the drive-in restaurant in Mount Joy -- no malts unfortunately. At the Turkey Hill, the attendant Brett asked what I was doing and, when I explained, gushed "that's awesome!!" and insisted on shaking my hand. Its moments like this that really make the trip.

Forgot that 230 merges onto the 283 expressway below Mount Joy, and there are no warning signs; you're just suddenly there on the highway. Got off the next exit and made my way back to old 230, through Salunga and Landisville.

Lancaster seems to be the land of the endless traffic lights. They aren't the modern LED kind, either; so they must be costing the city a fortune. I seemed to hit most of them red.

Arrived at the campground shortly before nine and found a tent-only spot. (The sign at the office, which was closed, listed just two sites as open, both with full hookup; but when I looked around, all the tent sites were open.) Night watchman came by. (This campground has got staff than I've ever seen at a campground anywhere.) I explained that I'd set up where I did because all the tent sites seemed to be free. "None of them are free!" I started to offer to move until I realized what he meant, so I assured him I would register and pay when the office opened in the morning.